Friday, September 21, 2007

India welcomes Vogue's first edition

The world has its eyes on India where number of millionaires are rapidly growing. Truly speaking, when I go there it seems that they are multiplying. For the same reason multinational companies see India as one of the countries with high growth potential, with the most intelligent manpower available and good living conditions.

'Conde Nast', the company that owns 'Vogue' brand has launched its 17th Vogue with India edition. 'Vogue' is best described as a fashion bible and its launch is a clear indication of the global brands having keen interest in Indian consumers. The magazine is more colorful than all the other 16 editions and is going to display Indowestern fusion of style. The market entry is done with 50,000 copies and is availbale in about 40 towns in more than 5000 outlets. The launch party was done at Umaid Bhavan Palace in Jodhpur, Rajasthan.

The cover page has Bollywood stars Bipasha Basu, Priyanka Chopra and Australian supermodel Gemma Ward. Vogue cover girls are styled by British Vogue's fashion director Lucinda Chambers and shot by Patrick Demarchelier world's leading fashion photographer.

Affluent Indian women of today want the best of both Indian and Western fashion. Bravo! Indian designers to create fashion scene in India and the consumers with loads of money in their wallet.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

The Nehru Jacket

India's first primeminister 'JawaharLal Nehru'(1947to 1964) is credited to popularize the famous single breasted,hip length jacket with band collar. It is fitted like a regular suit jacket and called as 'Nehru Jacket'. This style came to West in late 60's which stayed there till early 70's. 1960's was the time when foreign cultures had a strong influence on society and that revealed in fashion too.

Hollywood has always seen it as a villain's attire....oops Nehru didn't know this character of his favourite jacket....or probably he discovered a powerful style element hidden in it and that is what he liked in it. Indian politians, rich and famous-all have their wardrobes loaded with Nehru jackets.It is a kind of uniform among all the James Bond Villains. In the popular Harry Potter movies, Severus Snape (played by Alan Rickman) is always shown wearing a black robe with a black Nehru jacket-like underpiece. Hugo Drax in Moonraker, Dr.Evil in Austin Powers, Dr No in Dr No and many more villains have worn it. All round entertainer Sammy Davis claimed to have owned 200 of these.

In 60's intellectuals, musicians and religious leaders had special interest in Indian culture. The Beatles even travelled to India to study 'Meditation from Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. The same Maharishi who has a dedicated TV channel'. Some musicians actually went ahead to learn Indian music. This jacket was available in variety of fabrics and sometimes worn with beads giving it a little hippie character. It could be a fashion fad in west but a classic men's outfit in India. Every Indian men has at least 1-2 of these jackets. It is considered a perfect choice for a groom's attire to be worn on his special occassions be it engagement, wedding day or reception. If any of my male readers do not own one, think of the powerful, diplomatic, dominating character associated with it ........ go ahead to get one stitched.

Friday, June 29, 2007

1980's

1980's (80-89) saw the mix of styles with the beat "everything bold and flashy". Everyone had their individual style depending on their personality and lifestyle. There was money and lots of activity in society. The generation of baby boomers were young and working. By 80's it was not unusual to see women working in high positions. The 'power dressing' for women was shown by the popularity of use of shoulder pads, mini skirts, bold hairstyles, high heels in bright colors.

In 1983 the movie "Flashdance" popularized the ripped sweatshirts with one exposed shoulder for women. Bollywood actress 'Dimple' wore the similar one in movie "Aitbaar". The superhit style icons of 80's were 'Michael Jackson' and 'Madonna'. They gained fame all over the world. Madonna wore brassiers for the first time as outerwear and the youngsters followed her. Lace gloves, tulle skirts, boytoy belts, fishnet stockings, layers of beaded necklace were the trends set by her. Michael Jackson as an icon spread red/black leather pants, jackets, one glove sometimes without fingers, sunglasses and the love for breakdance.

The elements of casualwear were getting into the formal dressing which gave birth to contemporary style. Men started to wear casual T-shirts under expensive jackets. People started wearing sneekers as casual wear instead of only wearing them as an athletic wear. Acid washed jeans and denim jackets was another popular style. Tatooting and piercing had their own reflections. Left ear piercing was acceptable for a heterosexual male and right ear piercing would mean homosexuality. Pret a porter (Ready to wear) design business flourished in 80's because the trend was to reflect the money that you have and that is what happens when the young generation has money.

1980's also saw legwarmers, puffed sleeves, hairstyles with bangs, headbands, tight pants with lose shirts, polka dots and aerobics wear. The designers used lycra/ spandex and viscose in making of special fabrics.

Dance and Music were the main theme of many influential movies of both Hollywood and Bollywood. The bollywood 'disco dancer' and 'dance dance' movies followed the success of 'Dirty dancing', "Flashdance' etc. ' Mithun Chakraborty was a disco dance icon. I remember as a kid (80's) we used to dance on his dance numbers in our birthday parties.

Amitabh Bachan and Jitendra could be seen dancing the same actions as the actresses. They also wore make up in their movies. Some of the 80's pop singers in west also wore makeup like Boy George, Duran Duran.

Sridevi was the no 1 heroine in Bollywood. She had dark and bold make up on her face, hairstyles with bangs and little overacting in most of her movies. Overacting, dark lipstick and eyeliner were the trends.

The era of 'Minimalism' (90's) in India started with the movie 'Maine pyaar Kiya"(1989) in which the story,acting, screenplay, songs and dresses did not have that extra, bold and flashing character of 80's. All over the world 90's saw 'Minimalist' as wearing the frills, makeup and color just as much as they needed.

The fashion and style trends start repeating them after every 20 years and If we look at the trends now we have reflections of 80's like the return of tight pants and lose shirts, high heels in bold colors, hairstyle with bangs and lots of layers, puff sleeves, patent leather, shoulder pads in jackets, dresses with high waist belts etc.

I am sure 80's had so much going on that I must have missed one or the other point. You are welcome to add on as a comment if you find some other thing.

Monday, June 25, 2007

Traditional Art of Block Printing on Textiles

Hand Block printing is a technique of producing prints on fabric or paper using wooden blocks. This method is known to have originated in China. From there it spread to all the other parts of the world. In most of the countries now printing is done only through computerised machines whereas in India this craft is still alive and passed on from generation of craftmen to other.

India is well known worldwide for its printed and dyed cotton since 12th century. Traditionally the craftmen use vegetable dyes like turmeric roots, pomegranate skin, lac and iron, madder root. If you have ever heard of organic prints, these are what it is. Each village has its own way of making designs. Bagru prints are bold geometric ones and Balmer prints are geometrical called Azrakh. It can be done in many forms direct printing, discharge or resist printing. Rajasthan and Gujarat are main centers but it is done in many other parts of India also like Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh, Delhi etc.

Sabhyasachi Mukherjee (a Calcutta based designer) showed his collection in New York Fashion week 07 which is a great mix of Indian fabrics and rich textures made into Western silhouettes. He is considered one of the most talented designers in both East and West. Pooja Arya is popular in Indian fashion scene for use of block printed fabrics in his designs. The hand block printed fabrics have been very popular among those who walk the parliament everyday since Indira Gandhi's times. The block printed fabrics and the products can be seen in every high profile Delhiites clothing wardrobe or linen closet.

For foreign travellers it is a rare work of art. They see Indigo dyeing as a mysterious process because the fabric is dipped in Indigo bath, there is no color observed. When the fabric is exposed to air, the color appears. I remember wearing a traditional block printed outfit once when a textile technologist Mr Carlo Bel from Italy came to me only to appreciate the work of art. Besides Indian traditional outfits, you can find block printed kurta top, skirt, tank, jacket, vest, hat, bedspreads, quilts, tablecloths, table mats, wall hangings, stoles etc.

If you are not aware of the beauty of these textiles and talent of craftmen there are some must see places in India. Fab India, Dilli Haat, Dastkar, Suraj Kund Mela, International Trade Fair, Craft Museum, Central and State Cottage emporiums etc. Fab India is an organisation which has been selling block printed articles since 1960's and is a part of Harvard Business School's case study.

Thanks to all the craftmen, artists, designers and consumers who have helped in keeping this traditional craft alive. Some of the website's which are selling these products are-http://www.craftsinindia.com/, http://www.marketplaceindia.org/, http://www.fabindia.com/, http://www.indiaplaza.com/, http://www.kharidaari.com/ .

Saturday, June 23, 2007

Oprah wears the Indian Tunic Top (Kurta)

The traditional North Indian attire Salwar Kameez (Pant and top) has always been changing its forms. It is very popular in India and Pakistan. A tunic top (kurta) and pant is modern version and getting more and more popular because of its beauty and comfort. It is available in variety colors, fabrics, embroideries, prints, surface ornamentations, styles. One can wear it anywhere to the park, office, school, shopping or even party.

Oprah Winfrey-one of the most famous personalities of the world, wore it in her magazine cover in June 2007 issue. The yellow tunic top has the spirit of spring and the glittering embroidery very well corresponds to her celebrity status. She has fine choice for sure. I read that she asked fashion designer Ralph Lauren to design custom-made cashmere jackets for her dogs.

Indian designers have shown number of variations of kurta tops in 'Wills India Fashion Week 2007'. They did not follow the traditional embroideries. Kavita Bhartiya showed a short length Kurta worn with a skirt which can be compared to the 'Peasant look' of west. Shantanu and Nikhil made a fusion of collared shirt and kurta with graphical patterns on it and is a great choice for Fall/Winter.

Bollywood actress Kareena Kapoor knows the importance of changing style with time so she is changing her designer now. Manish Malhotra has designed clothes for her in most of her movies. She is drifting to Aki Narula now who has designed for new bollywood movie 'Jhoom barabar jhoom'.

Tunic tops (Kurtas) come in so many styles that you can wear a kurta everytime yet maintaining a different look. Check out these websites for an awesome collection. http://www.kaneesha.com/, http://www.bargello.com/, http://www.marketplaceindia.org/, http://www.eshakti.com/, http://www.reetriwaj.com/.

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Ganesha Inspirations: Om Ganeshai Namah

Lord Ganesha - A Hindu God - a God of new beginnings. He is the one who is worshiped first on all Hindu religious ceremonies or important occassions. He is believed to remove obstacles and brings success in everything.

He has been an inspiration for many artists and designers. Lord Ganesha is not only present in paintings and statues but also in clothes, watches, Jewelery, handbags, hats, lampshades, table mats, wall hangings, wind chimes, home decoratives. Meditation on Ganpati(Ganesha) is done for bringing wisdom and balance, therefore very popular in Yoga clothing.

Most of the Ganesha products come from India and Thailand. Ganesha T-shirts come in variety of colors, prints, motifs (traditional or modern , graphics or embroideries. Ganesha has inspired many jewelery designers who have made exquisite products which are believed to be auspicious at the same time. If someone try hunting then Cotton tops (kurtas) with Kalamkari prints (Andhra Pradesh India) or hand painted clothes with distinctive styles can also be found.

Few years back, I heard of a Swiss company entering Indian market with watch having Ganesha on its dial. Well, everyone wants to be successful. One must not be confused while designing a product inspired from Hindu mythology like a company did. I heard that " They had made flip flops with Ganesha's motifs". Undoubtedly, that must have hurt millions of people all around the world.

If you have never worn a Ganesha product you can begin with a Ganesha T and a denim..then see how the friends and colleagues comment about your exotic look. A small Ganesha pendant can also be a soft start. He has been around for thousands of years with the image of a man having elephant head. I find him real cute and inspired enough to paint a Ganesha midi today (my personal style).

For finding huge collection of Ganesha products one can try http://www.ebay.com , http://www.cafepress.com, http://www.yogasite.com, http://www.novica.com, http://www.bepresent.net and ...many more....

I hope some of you will be enlightened after reading this article if not all.